The sun is beautiful sometimes, the moment is right, but you find your shot fuzzy when you get home. Arrgh!
Why are images of you blurry? One apparent cause is that your camera is not properly focused.
You see, while today’s cameras and lenses in a wide range of circumstances can help you easily capture sharp pictures, you must first select the correct autofocus mode.
So here are a few questions to help you diagnose some blurry-photo cases, so you can reliably pick the best autofocus settings!
Do you use the autofocus mode for auto-area or the autofocus mode for single-point?
Who gets your focal points to decide?
This is what you determine when choosing between AF auto-area mode and AF single-point mode.
Your camera chooses what it can use as your focal point for an auto-area autofocus feature. Depending on what appears more conspicuous in the viewfinder or is nearest to the camera, it typically determines.
Is it a negative thing here?
Well, if the topic is apparent and there are no prospective distractions, it will work. But what do you do when you want to concentrate inside the frame on a smaller subject?
You choose a single point autofocus setting for further power.
Single-point mode helps you to select your own autofocus point (if you’re not sure how to do this, check your camera manual).
After all, only you know where your subject is and where you want to put it within your composition, not your camera.
(Note that your camera provides multiple additional AF area modes, but selecting between auto-area mode and single-point mode is a decent idea to start with.)
Is your subject moving?
Four common options for autofocus settings are offered by most DSLR cameras: single, continuous, auto, and manual.
To help you choose the right choice, ask yourself, “Is my topic moving?” ”
Then read the related advice below, based on your answer:
No, my subject doesn’t move,
Choose ‘AF-S’ on your camera if your subject isn’t moving (although this mode is referred to as ‘One Shot’ on Canon cameras).
As soon as you half-press the shutter button, AF-S acquires and locks the focus. Your shot would be in focus if your subject remains at the very same distance from the camera (and you will be able to keep taking pictures and will expect them to be in focus, too). Your images would be fuzzy if your subject changes.
That is, in other words:
To function, the subject has to be stationary for AF-S. In fact, if your subject is shifting and your lens can not gain focus, the shutter won’t shoot.
AF-S helps you to recompose as well. Let’s assume the autofocus point is in the middle of the picture, but you want the subject near the edge to be placed. The emphasis will stay sharp on your subject as long as you hold a half-press on your shutter button.
You can then move the camera slightly to the left or right, away from the middle of the frame, positioning your subject.
Yes, my subject is moving.
“Using continuous autofocus (“AF-C” on most cameras, but Canon calls it “AI Servo”) while the subject is moving.
You can position your autofocus point over your subject with this mode, and the focus keeps changing as you click the shutter button. As it shifts, this holds the subject in view.
For instance, you can position the AF point on your subject and half-press the shutter button if someone is riding a bike. The autofocus can change constantly as long as you’re half-pressing the shutter, holding your subject in view as they pass.
Depress the shutter absolutely when you’re ready to take the shot, and the camera fires a bright, in-focus image.
No, my subject doesn’t move, but maybe it does,
A third alternative incorporates the single autofocus and continuous autofocus modes features. Depending on the camera, this hybrid mode (“AF-A” for Nikon or “AI Focus” for Canon) functions differently.
However, depending on whether the camera perceives a moving subject or an unmoving subject, AF-A often requires some form of automatic switching between AF-S and AF-C modes.
You will concentrate on an unmoving topic exactly as though you are working in AF-S with AF-A enabled. But your camera will turn to AF-C and begin monitoring as soon as the subject moves.
Have a sense?
This is the best of all worlds for some photographers and helps you to work with unpredictable subjects that travel repeatedly and then abruptly stop (i.e., birds). However, since your camera can try to refocus depending on the location of its autofocus point, you will always lose the ability to focus and recompose, so make sure to keep that in mind.
My autofocus obviously doesn’t get it right,
You do have the option to turn the autofocus feature off and pick the manual focus mode.
When can this be done?
Well, it may be more effective to aim the camera yourself if your camera has difficulty detecting the focus point.
Notice that you can turn the injury autofocus off. So every now and then, when you don’t seem to be able to focus your camera when you don’t hear the engine searching back and forth, try to see if you’ve chosen manual focus without making sense of it. This will occur more often than you would expect!
Other issues to consider
What if you set up the autofocus right and it won’t focus the lens?
I would recommend that you think about these solutions:
Maybe you’re too close. Only try backing down. The camera will not be able to concentrate properly if you are too close to your subject.
Maybe your subject doesn’t have ample contrast. For most autofocus systems to work, the picture needs to provide some contrast. The majority of autofocus systems would fail if you attempt to photograph a solid sheet of white or other single-colored walls. About why? To assess their emphasis, cameras use variations in colors and tones. If a camera is unable to find any contrast, it can’t concentrate.
You may have an exceptionally shallow field depth. Your autofocus is working in this situation, but the field depth is so shallow, it’s hard to say that your subject is in view.
You had a shake on camera. You switch the camera as you depress the shutter. The camera picks up the motion if the shutter speed is too slow, and it gives you a fuzzy shot. Make sure the speed of your shutter is greater than your focal length counterpart. For eg, the shutter speed should be 1/100s or faster to prevent the camera shake if you are zoomed out to 100mm.
You see a swirl in motion. The shot will end up fuzzy if your subject moves rapidly and your shutter speed is too slow, so make sure that you use a fast-enough shutter speed to freeze any action in the scene.
Choosing the best mode of autofocus: Conclusion
Why are images of you blurry?
Your workaround could be as easy as selecting the correct settings if the solution is connected to your autofocus mode.
And make sure you use the procedure I’ve set out above to stop any potential fuzzy images.